Natural emulsifiers are like the unsung heroes in skincare and beauty products. They’re often the reason our lotions and creams are smooth, silky, and don’t look like a separated mess. If you’re crafting DIY beauty goods, then knowing which skin-friendly emulsifier to use makes a world of difference in your concoctions.
What are Emulsifiers and Why are They Important?
Emulsifiers are substances that help mix two liquids that normally don’t blend well, the most common being oil and water. They work by reducing the interfacial tension between the liquids’ particles, creating an emulsion.
Without emulsifiers, oil and water will eventually separate. This leaves you with an unstable, less effective beauty formulation that may not feel good on your skin.
But not just any emulsifier will do! Natural ones are those typically extracted from plants, food sources, or other naturally occurring substances. Many people favor using them in their beauty products instead of synthetic alternatives, as they tend to be gentler on the skin and are more eco-friendly.
Difference Between Oil-in-Water vs Water-in-Oil Emulsions
When making DIY beauty products, understanding the difference between oil-in-water emulsion and water-in-oil types is important. It determines which natural emulsifier you should use, particularly since each differs in how it delivers active ingredients to your skin and how long the formulation lasts.
- Oil-in-water emulsions (O/W): These consist of water as the primary component, with tiny oil droplets dispersed throughout. They are typically lighter, more hydrating, quicker to absorb, and easier to clean since they can be washed away with water. Think facial moisturizers, lotions, and toners.
- Water-in-oil emulsions (W/O): These have oil as the main base with suspended water droplets in it. They are richer, more occlusive, water-resistant, and typically have a longer shelf life than O/W emulsions. Think thick creams, balms, or products made for dry and/or sensitive skin.
11 Different Natural Emulsifiers For Your Homemade Beauty Products
1. Sorbitan Olivate and Cetearyl Olivate
These are plant-based emulsifiers derived from olive oil and often used together to form a wax-like substance.
Also known as Olivem 1000, they work well in oil-in-water emulsions, as they provide products with a silky-smooth texture and add a moisturizing effect without making them feel greasy. They can be found in Food and Drug Administration (FDA)-approved cosmetics, but you can also use them when creating moisturizing creams and lotions at home.
2. Soy Lecithin
More commonly used as a food emulsifier, soy lecithin is derived from soybeans and can be found in sauces, salad dressings, ice creams, and chocolates. However, it can also work just as well in skincare as it stabilizes emulsions.
Soy lecithin is rich in phospholipids, a type of lipid that helps ingredients penetrate and hydrate the skin better. They enable soy lecithin to enhance the delivery of active ingredients to your skin, while also imparting products with a soft, silky texture. You can use it in O/W or W/O formulas and various creams, balms, and serums.
3. Sunflower Lecithin
Just like soy lecithin, sunflower lecithin is a natural emulsifier that offers the same benefits but without the allergen concern that people sensitive to soybean may have.
Derived from sunflower seeds, it’s great to use for DIY skincare like creams and body butter since it’s hypoallergenic and non-GMO.
4. Xanthan Gum
Derived from corn sugar, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide (a type of carbohydrate) that you often see in desserts and beverage products. However, it’s also highly effective in skincare, serving as a stabilizing and thickening agent that lends products a more luxurious texture.
Being a natural emulsifier, xanthan gum is non-toxic and non-irritating. You can use it with other thickeners or stabilizers in oil-in-water emulsions, such as lotions or facial formulations.
5. Acacia Gum (Gum Arabic)
Acacia gum is a natural resin collected from two species of acacia trees, Senegal and Seyal.
In skincare, it acts as both an emulsifier and a thickener. It’s rich in polysaccharides that add to its water-binding properties, making it particularly useful for improving the texture and consistency of beauty products. It also has saponin, known for its foaming and cleansing properties.
It’s a gentle ingredient that works very well in oil-in-water emulsions. You can use it in DIY gels, toners, light lotions, and cosmetics such as mascaras, lipsticks, and foundations.
6. Gelatin
Gelatins are much more than food emulsifiers! It’s derived from collagen, which is a protein extracted from animals like cattle or fish.
Gelatin is well known for its ability to gel liquids and stabilize water/oil mixes in the process. In skincare, however, it helps add a firm yet luxurious texture to products such as gel creams and lotions or peel-off masks. Gelatin also has moisturizing properties, making it suitable for use in serums and moisturizers.
It’s suitable for oil-in-water emulsions where its gelling abilities can help suspend the oil droplets in water. However, since it’s not vegan, you should avoid it if you’re strictly sticking to plant-based ingredients.
7. Whey Proteins
Derived from milk, whey proteins are often overlooked as a natural emulsifier in skincare, as people focus on their benefits for gut health. They help bind oil and water by forming a protective barrier on the oil droplets, preventing them from aggregating.
Whey proteins are particularly effective in oil-in-water emulsions, offering stability and skin-conditioning benefits. You can use them in facial masks or body formulations. Note that, just like gelatin, they are best used by those who don't mind animal-derived ingredients in their homemade beauty products.
8. Seaweeds (Carrageenan, Agar-Agar)
Derived from red and brown seaweeds, carrageenan and agar-agar work by helping keep ingredients from separating once mixed.
Carrageenan acts as both a thickening and emulsifying agent, enhancing the texture, consistency, and viscosity of beauty products. It also has water-binding properties that are especially helpful in skin-hydrating products.
Similarly, agar-agar (or agar) stabilizes formulations, thickens mixtures, and acts as a potent emollient that can help hydrate the skin.
Both algae work well in oil-in-water emulsions and can be used in the formulation of gels, creams, and lotions.
9. Wax Emulsifiers (Candelilla Wax, Beeswax, Carnauba Wax)
Natural waxes, such as candelilla, beeswax, and carnauba, can help thicken and stabilize emulsions, particularly in water-in-oil formulations. They work by creating a structure that holds both water and oil ingredients together.
Candelilla and carnauba waxes are both plant-derived, with the former coming from the leaves and stems of the candelilla shrub and the latter from the carnauba tree. They work best if paired with other emulsifiers when you’re creating plant-based recipes for your hair or skin.
Beeswax, meanwhile, has mild emulsifying properties but works better as a binding and thickening agent in lotions, creams, and balms.
Use these waxes when you want to achieve thicker textures or make your products water-repellent. They’re instrumental in salves and lip balms.
10. Lanolin
A widely used natural emulsifier, lanolin is derived from sheep’s wool, which is why it’s also referred to as wool wax or wool fat.
It acts as both an emulsifier and an emollient, helping to stabilize oil-water interfaces in products while also deeply moisturizing the skin in the process. Lanolin also helps with their spreadability, making them feel smoother and more luxurious on the skin.
It’s ideal for use in water-in-oil formulations in beauty recipes designed to soothe dry or damaged skin and manage inflammation. Note that, like gelatin and whey proteins, lanolin is not vegan-friendly.
11. Egg Yolks
Old-school but effective, yolks from eggs make for excellent emulsifiers thanks to their lecithin content. They were previously used in the production of creams and balms.
However, using them in modern DIY skincare is much less common due to concerns over freshness and shelf life. Today, the use of egg yolks is prevalent in food applications such as making mayonnaise or cakes.
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